There is a certain expectation that comes with checking into an upscale hotel. Beautiful accommodations, impressive amenities, and thoughtful design may attract guests, but ultimately, it is the hospitality that determines whether a stay is truly memorable.
During a February 2020 visit to Cartagena, Colombia, we checked into the ESTELAR Cartagena de Indias Hotel & Centro de Convenciones, a striking property in the city’s popular Bocagrande neighborhood.
At first glance, there was plenty to admire.
The hotel is undeniably beautiful, with contemporary architecture, inviting recreational spaces, and an enviable position along Cartagena’s Caribbean coastline. Its appearance certainly suggested the makings of a wonderful stay.
Unfortunately, our experience demonstrated that beautiful surroundings alone cannot deliver exceptional hospitality.
First Impressions: A Property With Plenty of Appeal
ESTELAR’s location in Bocagrande makes it an appealing option for visitors who want to experience Cartagena’s coastal atmosphere while remaining relatively close to the historic Walled City.
The hotel offers the sort of amenities one might expect from an upscale urban resort, including ocean-view accommodations, a swimming pool, on-site dining, and spaces designed for relaxation and entertaining.
Visually, the property made a strong impression. We particularly enjoyed its attractive surroundings and pool area, which offered an opportunity to relax during our visit.
From an architectural and aesthetic standpoint, I could certainly understand why travelers would be drawn to the hotel.
But a hotel’s appearance tells only part of its story.
When Service Becomes the Defining Experience
Our disappointment began with what should have been ordinary requests.
Attempts to order room service went unanswered, and repeated calls to the front desk failed to produce the assistance we needed.
While an occasional delay can happen at any hotel, the lack of responsiveness became a recurring frustration throughout our stay.
The most troubling experience, however, occurred when we visited the hotel’s bar and restaurant.
Despite arriving before several other guests, we found ourselves waiting for service while white and other non-Black patrons around us were attended to.
We remained there for approximately 30 minutes without receiving service.
Watching other guests receive attention while we continued to be overlooked was both uncomfortable and upsetting. Given the repeated difficulties we had encountered, it became increasingly difficult to regard the situation as an ordinary service delay.
As Black women traveling abroad, we were especially conscious of the apparent difference in treatment.
An Opportunity to Make Things Right
Following the restaurant experience, we brought our concerns to hotel management.
Management offered us a complimentary dinner, an acknowledgment that initially seemed like a thoughtful effort to address our dissatisfaction.
Unfortunately, the resolution proved disappointing.
When we arrived for the dinner, we learned that we would not be permitted to order freely from the regular menu as other diners could. Instead, we were offered a restricted selection of dishes, none of which appealed to us.
The gesture felt less like a genuine attempt to restore our confidence and more like an accommodation made on the hotel’s terms.
We attempted to raise our concerns again, but felt that our complaints were dismissed while other guests appeared to receive more attentive assistance.
By that point, the experience had left a lasting impression, and not the one we had anticipated when choosing the property.
A Conversation About Hospitality and Inclusion
Travel provides wonderful opportunities to experience different cultures, traditions, and ways of life. It also occasionally exposes travelers to uncomfortable realities.
Throughout our stay, the difference in how we appeared to be treated compared with non-Black guests raised serious concerns about racial bias and colorism.
I cannot speak to the intentions of individual employees, nor can I definitively establish what motivated their actions. What I can say is that the repeated lack of service, particularly while observing other guests being attended to, left us feeling unwelcome and unfairly treated.
That is an experience no traveler should have to accept.
Luxury hospitality should extend beyond impressive architecture and attractive amenities. It should be reflected in the way every guest is acknowledged, respected, and cared for.
And those standards should be consistent, regardless of race, complexion, nationality, or background.
The Verdict: A Beautiful Hotel I Would Not Revisit
We enjoyed remarkable meals, memorable evenings, and genuinely warm hospitality at several establishments throughout the city and surrounding beach communities.
Our experience at ESTELAR, unfortunately, stood in sharp contrast.
The property’s appearance and location are genuine strengths. But the repeated service failures, unsatisfactory handling of our complaints, and treatment we perceived as discriminatory overshadowed those advantages.
Would I recommend Cartagena? No.
Would I return to ESTELAR Cartagena de Indias?
Based on our experience, I would not.
A beautiful hotel may inspire someone to make a reservation, but genuine hospitality is what inspires them to return.
And ultimately, luxury is not simply what a hotel provides. It is how a hotel makes every guest feel.