From unforgettable seafood and spirited nights in the Walled City to the crystal-clear waters of Barú, Cartagena has plenty to fall in love with. But one disappointing hotel stay offered a reminder that beautiful surroundings and exceptional hospitality aren’t always the same thing.
There is something about Cartagena that stays with you.
Perhaps it’s the vibrancy of its streets, the unmistakable rhythm of Latin music drifting through the evening air, or the way the Caribbean seems to find its way into almost everything, from the food on your plate to the spirit of the people you encounter.
For me, it was the food that stole the show.
Cartagena, a historic port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, has become a sought-after destination for travelers looking for an intoxicating combination of culture, cuisine, nightlife, and coastal beauty. And after experiencing it for myself, I can certainly understand the appeal.
But beyond its colorful architecture and celebrated culinary scene, Cartagena has a history that deserves to be explored.
One of the more enlightening experiences of our visit was a Colombian coffee tour that offered much more than an introduction to one of the country’s most famous exports. Through the history of coffee cultivation, agricultural labor, and slavery, we learned about Colombia’s complicated racial history and the African heritage that remains deeply woven into Cartagena’s cultural identity.
The experience also offered insight into Colombia’s regional diversity, including why Cartagena and much of the Caribbean coast have such a prominent Afro-Colombian presence compared with some other regions of the country. It was a fascinating reminder that understanding a destination means looking beyond its attractions to the people and historical events that shaped it.
Our days were filled with exceptional meals, beautiful beaches, memorable encounters, and meaningful opportunities to learn about the country we were exploring. Among those memorable encounters was a wonderful local driver named Felix, who helped make our time outside the city particularly special.
Yet, for all its beauty, our visit was not without disappointment. A troubling experience at our hotel introduced a very different side of hospitality, one that deserves just as much attention as the destination’s celebrated attractions.
A Culinary Love Affair With Cartagena
If there’s one piece of advice I would offer anyone planning a trip to Cartagena, it would be this: come hungry.
The culinary scene was easily one of the strongest parts of our trip. From relaxed lunches to waterfront dinners, Cartagena made dining feel like an experience rather than simply another stop on the itinerary.
One of our lunchtime stops was Buena Vida Marisquería, a seafood-focused restaurant in Cartagena’s historic center. The restaurant brings together Caribbean-inspired cuisine, colorful surroundings, and a rooftop concept that fits beautifully into the city’s lively dining culture.
Restaurante, Brunch y Rooftop en Cartagena
Our lunch was thoroughly enjoyable and reinforced something I was quickly discovering: Cartagena knows how to make a meal memorable.
But my favorite dinner experience belonged to Restaurante Fuerte del Pastelillo.
Set along Cartagena’s bay, the restaurant offers something that can elevate an already enjoyable evening: a beautiful waterfront setting.
Restaurante Fuerte Del Pastelillo
There is an undeniable charm to dining beside the water. The setting encourages you to slow down, enjoy the company around you, and appreciate the moment rather than rush through another reservation.
Of all our dinner experiences in Cartagena, Fuerte del Pastelillo was the standout. The combination of the location and the pleasure of dining on the water made it particularly memorable.
It is precisely the kind of place I seek out when traveling: somewhere the setting becomes part of the experience.
Cocktails, Migos, and a Night Out in the Walled City
Cartagena has a nightlife scene that deserves its own itinerary.
Our evening began at The Pink Dolphin Gastrobar, where the cocktails and service were exceptional. It was the kind of bar experience that makes you want to stay for another round, not because you have nowhere else to go, but because you’re enjoying yourself too much to leave.
Good cocktails are always appreciated. Good cocktails accompanied by genuinely attentive service? Even better.
From there, we made our way to Alquímico, one of Cartagena’s celebrated cocktail destinations. Located on Calle del Colegio in the historic center, Alquímico occupies a multilevel colonial building and is known for its inventive drinks and lively atmosphere
And lively it was.
What I loved most about the evening was the music. One moment, we were listening to Migos; the next, Latin music had taken over. The mix was unexpected, energetic, and absolutely perfect for a night out.
There’s something wonderfully universal about a dance floor where different cultures and musical styles meet. You don’t necessarily need to know every song to have a wonderful time.
And the fun didn’t end at Alquímico.
We continued exploring the surrounding bars and clubs along the same street, enjoying the atmosphere and allowing the evening to unfold naturally.
For travelers who enjoy nightlife, my suggestion is simple: don’t limit yourself to one venue. Cartagena is a city where an evening can turn into a night worth remembering just by following the music.
The Local Beach Bocagrande isn’t the best but Barú is a hour drive away.
When most people imagine a Caribbean getaway, they picture clear turquoise water, beautiful stretches of sand, and a setting that feels worlds away from the ordinary.
Cartagena can absolutely deliver that experience. You just may need to venture outside the city to find it.
Playa de Bocagrande: Convenient, but Not My Favorite
One of the most accessible beaches for visitors staying in Cartagena’s Bocagrande neighborhood is Playa de Bocagrande.
Its biggest advantage is convenience. You don’t need to arrange a lengthy excursion to reach the shoreline, which makes it appealing for travelers hoping to spend a little time near the water without leaving the city.
But convenience doesn’t always translate into the best beach experience.
Personally, I wasn’t particularly impressed. The beachfront felt considerably less picturesque than the Caribbean setting I had hoped for, and we encountered a noticeable number of people experiencing homelessness in the surrounding area.
While homelessness is a broader social issue rather than a reflection of the people themselves, the overall environment simply wasn’t what I was looking for in a relaxing beach day.
If your itinerary allows for a little adventure, I would recommend looking beyond Bocagrande.
Playa Blanca, Isla de Barú: Worth Every Minute of the Drive
Now, this was the Cartagena beach experience I had been waiting for.
Located on the Barú peninsula, Playa Blanca is known for its beautiful stretches of sand and striking Caribbean waters.
Getting there required a little commitment. Our wonderful driver, Felix, took us on the approximately 90-minute journey from Cartagena, making it roughly a three-hour round trip.
And I would do it again.
The water was beautifully clear, the beach was stunning, and the atmosphere offered the kind of tropical escape I had hoped to experience.
But what made the excursion truly special was the hospitality.
The people we encountered at the beach were welcoming, attentive, and genuinely pleasant. After our less-than-ideal experiences at the hotel, that warmth was especially appreciated.
And, naturally, there was the food.
We enjoyed a beautifully fresh meal of whole fried fish and coconut rice, a combination that deserves a place on every seafood lover’s Cartagena dining list.
There is something particularly satisfying about enjoying fresh seafood by the Caribbean Sea. Nothing about the experience needs to be complicated. Good food, beautiful water, and wonderful hospitality can create a memory that lasts far longer than an elaborate itinerary.
Our meal was delicious, the experience felt relaxed, and the surroundings were breathtaking.
If you’re visiting Cartagena primarily for the beaches, I would happily recommend making the trip to Barú rather than limiting your beach time to Bocagrande.
Felix also deserves special recognition. Having a reliable, personable driver made exploring beyond the city much more comfortable, and his service became one of the positive experiences I associate with our visit.
Sometimes the people you encounter while traveling become just as memorable as the places themselves.
A Beautiful Hotel, but Hospitality That Fell Short
Our accommodations were at ESTELAR Cartagena de Indias Hotel & Centro de Convenciones, a visually striking property in Bocagrande.
On paper, the hotel offers many of the elements travelers look for in an upscale stay: ocean-view accommodations, an infinity pool, a spa, dining venues, and a rooftop bar.
And to be fair, the hotel itself is absolutely beautiful.
Unfortunately, the quality of our experience did not reflect the beauty of the property.
Throughout our stay, we encountered repeated instances of poor service that left us feeling dismissed and, more troublingly, treated differently from white and other non-Black guests.
Requests for room service went unanswered. Calls to the front desk were ignored. But the most upsetting experience occurred when we attempted to enjoy the hotel’s bar and restaurant.
Despite arriving before several other patrons, we sat waiting for service while non-Black guests around us were attended to.
We waited approximately 30 minutes.
During that time, other guests received service while we continued to be overlooked. Eventually, we left without being served.
It was difficult to view this as simply an isolated service oversight, particularly given the pattern of treatment we had already experienced.
We raised our concerns with hotel management, who offered a complimentary dinner as a gesture of resolution.
Unfortunately, that experience only added to our disappointment.
Upon arriving for dinner, we were informed that we could not order freely from the restaurant menu as other guests could. Instead, we were presented with a limited selection of dishes chosen for us, none of which we found particularly appealing.
What was meant to be an opportunity to make things right became yet another occasion where we felt we were being treated differently.
When we attempted to address our concerns again, we felt ignored, even as other guests appeared to have their issues handled promptly.
The cumulative experience left us with the strong impression that race and colorism played a role in the treatment we received.
I cannot speak to the intentions of individual employees, but I can speak to what we experienced, what we witnessed, and how consistently we were made to feel unwelcome.
And that’s what made the situation especially disappointing.
A hotel can have beautiful architecture, impressive views, and luxurious amenities, but if the hospitality fails, so does a significant part of the experience.
For travelers investing their time and money in an upscale stay, attentive and equitable service shouldn’t be considered a luxury. It should be the standard.
The hotel was beautiful. The hospitality, in our experience, was not.
I wouldn’t discourage someone from visiting Cartagena because of what happened at this particular property. The rest of our visit offered too many wonderful experiences to allow one hotel’s shortcomings to define an entire destination.
But I would encourage travelers, particularly Black travelers, to consider more than photographs and advertised amenities when selecting accommodations.
True luxury is about how a place makes you feel, and feeling genuinely welcome should never be optional.
Would I Return to Cartagena? Absolutely NOT.
This was my second visit to Cartagena. I visited the city just under two months prior and the first experience was similar to my second experience (what I’m writing about here). The colorism and racism that we experienced in Cartagena was enough to mark this city off my list for good.
Until the next destination,
Giselle